Secrets de Beauté #1 : Marie-Antoinette ou la genèse de la cosmétique naturelle

Secrets de Beauté #1 : Marie-Antoinette ou la genèse de la cosmétique naturelle

Mademoiselle Saint Germain : Les cosmétiques naturels avec le Potager du Roi Vous lisez Secrets de Beauté #1 : Marie-Antoinette ou la genèse de la cosmétique naturelle 6 minutes Suivant Première récolte de romarin au Potager du Roi

Eprise d’histoire, de beauté…Et d’histoire de la beauté, mon souhait le plus cher est de vous offrir, à travers les cosmétiques Mademoiselle Saint Germain, ce que le règne végétal a de meilleur. Mon association avec le Potager du Roi de Versailles pour m’approvisionner en végétaux n’a donc rien du hasard… Mais sonne comme une évidence pour moi qui éprouve tant d’admiration pour Marie-Antoinette, grande dame d’un autre temps férue elle aussi de beauté naturelle ! En effet, cette jeune reine, et avec elle ses secrets de beauté, est à l’origine d’un véritable bouleversement des pratiques cosmétiques de l’époque (qui ne consistaient alors qu’à masquer crasse et odeurs) !

L'avant Marie-Antoinette : Fards et parfums

Avant la « révolution végétale » initiée par Marie-Antoinette, la beauté telle que conçue par la Cour du Château de Versailles tenait en deux mots : fard et parfum. C’est ainsi que la Cour de Louis XV fut surnommée « Cour Parfumée » en référence à la marquise de Pompadour, réputée dépenser des sommes d’argent colossales dans… Les parfums ! Parfums qui n’étaient pas alors pensés comme des outils de séduction destinés à rehausser la beauté mais utilisés pour masquer les odeurs corporelles…

On leur attribuait par ailleurs des propriétés purifiantes, la croyance voulant qu’ils aidaient à se débarrasser des miasmes (odeurs putrides). En effet, malgré le luxe et le raffinement de Versailles, le bain ne faisait pas partie des coutumes : les sujets avaient recours à la « toilette sèche », changeant de vêtements une dizaine de fois par jour environ. Tout était parfumé : gants, cheveux, habits, mouchoirs…

Le fard, lui aussi, avait bonne presse à l’époque, pour des raisons similaires : sa vocation première était en effet de cacher la crasse accumulée du fait du défaut de toilette, c’est pourquoi hommes et femmes en portaient ! Pourtant, il possédait de réels effets délétères pour la peau, étant composé de céruse et de sels de mercure. Et plus la peau était irrégulière, à force d’ en user et en abuser, plus on s’en appliquait sur la peau pour masquer ces imperfections…

C’est ainsi qu’à seulement 36 ans, Madame de Pompadour était déjà totalement défigurée ! Ce qui n’empêcha pas les courtisans de Louis XV d’utiliser encore et toujours ces substances pourtant nocives pour la peau. Et c’est d’ailleurs ce qui poussa Marie-Antoinette – au-delà de son amour pour la botanique – à remettre les végétaux au goût du jour, s’agissant de cosmétiques.

Marie-Antoinette : la cosmétique naturelle à l’honneur

Arrivée à Versailles en 1770 à l’âge de 14 ans seulement, Marie-Antoinette insuffle le vent du retour au naturel. Sous son impulsion, on abandonne la « toilette sèche » au profit de « la toilette de Flore », dont la renommée est telle qu’elle donne son nom à un ouvrage de Pierre-Joseph Buc’Hoz, célèbre médecin botaniste de l’époque. Et, dans la lignée de ce retour au naturel, les formules cosmétiques à base de minéraux – dont ceux qui composaient les fards, donc – sont abandonnées au profit de produits de beauté naturels à base d’extraits végétaux.

Si de nombreuses œuvres de l’époque compilent les recettes qui signent le renouveau de la cosmétique naturelle, c’est à Jean-Louis Fargeon, le parfumeur de Marie-Antoinette lui-même, que l’on doit le recueil le plus complet.

Et, pour vous imprégner de ces secrets de beauté, quoi de mieux qu’un extrait du livre « Jean-Louis Fargeon, parfumeur de Marie-Antoinette » (Elisabeth Feydeau, Editions Perrin, 2005) ? Morceaux choisis :

A l’intention de Marie-Antoinette, Fargeon confectionnait surtout des eaux spiritueuses de rose, de violette, de jasmin, de jonquille ou de tubéreuse obtenues par distillation (...) Il les intensifiait avec du musc, de l’ambre ou de l’opopanax.

Elle avait grand soin de son teint. L’ eau cosmétique de pigeon nettoyait la peau, l’eau des charmes faite avec les larmes de la vigne qui coule en mai, la tonifiait. L’ eau d’ange la blanchissait en purifiant le teint. Marie-Antoinette, dont la carnation était admirable, n’avait nul besoin de l’eau de Ninon de Lenclos censée conserver la jeunesse.

Elle enduisait ses mains de la pâte Royale qui en maintenait la douceur et prévenait des gerçures. Elle adorait les pommades à la rose, à la vanille, à la frangipane, à la tubéreuse, à l’œillet, au jasmin, aux mille-fleurs. Pour le bain, elle usait de savonnettes aux herbes, à l’ambre, à la bergamote ou au pot-pourri, et pour maintenir l’éclat de ses dents, elle commandait des poudres et opiats.

Ces quelques seules lignes à elles seules ne permettent-elles pas un premier aperçu des nombreux secrets de Marie-Antoinette pour rehausser sa beauté ? Si toutes ne paraissent plus adéquates au jour d’aujourd’hui compte tenu de l’évolution des connaissances, certaines d’entre elles me semblent tout de même dignes d’être mentionnées… Et pourquoi pas réalisées à la maison ! Ainsi, les recettes de pommade à la rose, à la vanille, à la frangipane, à la tubéreuse, à l’œillet, au jasmin, aux mille-fleurs, que nous aurons le loisir de détailler au fil du temps.

Mais pour l’heure, si nous commencions déjà par nous pencher sur 3 recettes de beauté emblématiques de la jeune reine ?

Recette #1 : L’eau cosmétique de pigeon pour se nettoyer la peau

Son nom évocateur pourrait en décourager plus d’un(e), et pourtant c’est bel et bien une eau cosmétique utilisée par Marie-Antoinette pour nettoyer sa peau…

Recette #2 : L'Eau d'Ange pour purifier le teint

L’eau de pigeon marque déjà un premier pas vers le retour au naturel, certes ! Néanmoins, mon cœur penche - oserais-je dire, sans hésitation - vers l’eau d’ange, utilisée quant à elle pour purifier le teint :

Recette #3 : La pate royale pour les mains pour prévenir les gerçures

Si la peau de notre visage mérite bien sûr toute notre attention, Marie-Antoinette mettait également un point d’honneur à préserver ses mains de la rudesse des saisons fraîches (une recette qui tombe à point nommé avec les prémices de l’automne, non ?) :

Si ces trois recettes nous permettent de nous faire une première idée de la richesse des cosmétiques naturels sous la Cour de Marie-Antoinette, ce n’est pas fini : peu à peu, je vous dévoilerai d’autres secrets de beauté de la jeune reine à qui l’on doit la genèse de la cosmétique naturelle. Mais auparavant, je vous propose de vous plonger encore 100 ans plus tôt avec l’histoire du secret de beauté qui a donné naissance à la première gamme de cosmétiques Mademoiselle Saint Germain

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